Yes, you can get broth in a coffee cup at 8am from New York Citys Hearth. Dave Bry discovers the unctuous pleasure of bone marrow first thing in the morning
I love soup. In fact, I consider myself something of a connoisseur. But Ive never considered it a morning food. So when I heard that Manhattans Hearth restaurant had started serving brodo (Italian for bone broth) in coffee mugs, and that it was becoming a popular breakfast choice I was surprised. Soup for breakfast? It did not sound great. So I went to check it out.
Hearth creates its concoctions from three base broths: chicken, beef and the house combo, called the Hearth, which is a combination of both plus turkey. Chef Marco Canora simmers the bones with spices for 18 hours at 208F (98C) and ends up with eight varieties that he sells at the restaurants windowfront broth shop, Brodo:
- The Classic: Chicken broth with shiitake mushrooms
- The BBC: Beef broth with chili oil and gloops of bone marrow that bubble into rich pools of oil on the surface (gloops, as a word, perhaps does a disservice to bone marrows deliciousness)
- The Marco: Hearth broth with ginger and roasted turmeric (Canora drinks it every day for breakfast)
- Tom Yum: Chicken with coconut milk and chili oil
- The BBT: Beef with beet kvass (fermented beet juice) and turmeric
- Spicy Nona: Hearth with garlic and chili oil
- What Came First: Chicken with an egg yolk and nutmeg
- Gilligan: Hearth broth with coconut milk and ginger
The morning I went, I asked the woman at the window for a Marco. I always like to try a house specialty, even if 10am seems an odd time for turmeric. A moment later, I was handed a paper cup with a cardboard cozy and a plastic top indistinguishable from a cup of coffee.